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The last bow of Yves Saint Laurent : June I, 2008 The Master of Haute Couture and iconic Fashion Designer - with the complicity of his forever business partner, Pierre Berge - sadly left us today with a wonderful gift: a major retrospective of the 40 years of his creative work for their House at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts , later traveling to San Francisco, at the De Young Museum in the end of October. Since Yves Saint Laurent arrived on the fashion scene, women were given freedom, and fashion has not longer been under any dictates. His creations not only go beyond fashion but will be remembered as revolutionary. Yves Saint Laurent understood exactly what women wanted when he designed the tuxedo and pants suit in order to give them confidence and power, or when he launched his seductive and couture ready-to-wear : Rive Gauche. His magic Haute Couture collections translated his perfect understanding and vast knowledge of art and culture. In addition to an innovative communication, a worldly and lucrative licensing system was developed, especially for perfume and cosmetics, backing up the designer. Suzy Menkes for the
International Herald Tribune wrote a great homage: Yves
Saint Laurent, the designer who redefined women's wear
Douglas Reker : From the tiny East Village studio to the cutting edge Debut boutique - New York City Lisa Weiss scouts emerging designers and offers a select few an opportunity to showcase a small collection in her new cutting edge boutique Debut - 298 Mulberry Street New York NY 10012 - which just opened on May 29!
Douglas Reker was picked with his PicNic collection shown on the Miami runway with Debut-Series and recently enlivened by the Style Bubble blog. So far and from the opening day, "Best Selling Designer" remains the title of Douglas Reker at Debut-New York! www.douglasreker.com ......................................................................................................www.debutnewyork.com
Debut-Series 2008 sponsored by YKK Corporation of America / YKK (U.S.A.) Inc. Last year, four young fashion designers - Megan Stein, David Gil, Douglas Reker and Carlos Santiago - were invited to present their first collection on the Miami runway during the Arts of Fashion Competition and Symposium presided by Veronique Branquinho.
With the support of YKK of America, we are pleased to announce that this year three new young designers have just been selected to present their first collection for Debut-Series 08 in San Francisco! Natallia Pilipenka, Stephanie Otto and Akarasun Seanglai are the winners. They all live and work in New York. On May 22nd - at the New York office of YKK of America - they presented their project and also received $2,000 (per person) in order to help them with their collection expenses. (Flight and accommodations will be also covered).
They are no strangers to the Arts of Fashion as Akarasun Seanglai was one of the 10 selected students to represent the United States in the former Concours International des Jeunes Createurs de Mode in 2003 in Paris, Stephanie Otto won the Arts of Fashion Competition 2004 at Oklahoma State University and Natallia Pilipenka is the recipient of the Anne-Valerie Hash Award 07 for the Arts of Fashion international competition 07 in Miami!
Congratulations to them all! Their projects reflect all their creativity and talent! Rendez-vous on the Arts of Fashion Runway on Oct 28-29, 2008 to discover their very first collections!
La Cambre Show 2008 - Honeymoon with Jean-Paul Gaultier June is the month of the most highly anticipated students annual fashion shows in Europe. Brussels with the Ecole Nationale Superieure des Arts Visuels - La Cambre Mode[s] will lead on June 6-7 with Jean-Paul Gaultier as the President of the jury and to name only a few : Isabelle Aout - Style Office Director for Maison Martin Margiela, Lucas Ossendrijver - Head Lanvin menswear designer, Susie Bubble - one of the most widely-read fashion bloggers, while Antwerp with the Royal Academy of Fine Arts will follow on June 12-13-14. London will be in the middle with the Royal College of Art Fashion Show on June 11... For their very first day in Belgium, the selected students from the Arts of Fashion Summer MasterClasses @ La Cambre will have the chance to immediatly dive in the fashion creative world of La Cambre on Saturday night!
June 6-7 / La Cambre
Show will be held at the Halles de Schaerbeek at 8:00 PM - Brussels
www.lacambre.be
The Best of the City - Fashion + Beauty / Expert Opinion The French Connection As president and founder of the Arts of Fashion Foundation, Nathalie Doucet could well be considered one of the San Francisco's most influential fashion scouts. The Paris-born 50-year old created the SF-based international competition in 2001 to help launch the careers of young design talent across the country and give them a "true access to creativity and design." Winners of the foundation's US contest, which this year included Oakland resident and CCA grad Amy Sarabi, receive scholarships to study in European fashion schools and work as interns in such design houses as Veronique Branquinho, Anne Valerie Hash and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. When Doucet isn't jetting across the Atlantic for the foundation's programs, the former fashion-design professor and clothing designer can be found lounging at Axis Cafe in her sort-of-dogpatch neighborhood, or soaking in the fashion exhibitions at the de Young Museum. Creme de la Creme
Fashion Conscious for a better quality of life The main benefactor of the University of California Davis - Robert Mondavi, the patriarch of the California wine industry and also well known as the supporter of cultural and educational institutions as an expression to improve the California quality of life - died today at age 94. He will be greatly missed and University of California Davis will keep his legacy alive beginning with a Symposium on Design with Conscience on May 18, sponsored by the Design program and Museum, pushing the eco-envelope with some prominent sustainable fashion designers to explore major issues facing the emerging sustainable fashion movement. The green fashion designers seek to reduce the 2.5 billion pounds of post-consumer textile waste generated in the United States each year (10 pounds for every person)... and to find alternatives to commercial cotton, whose production consumes 25% of all pesticides used in this country... Some predict eco-fashion will go the way of organic food and drink, which according to the Organic Trade Association, are now a $23 billion-a-year industry... The OGM concern that is raging right now in Europe was not approached... The panel included Lynda Grose, co-founder of the Ecollection for Esprit in the early 90's, today marketing consultant for the Sustainable Cotton Project, teaching sustainable design in different Fashion Schools in San Francisco and considered as the eco-fashion pioneer. The exhibition is co-curated by UC Davis Design Professor Susan Taber Avila and Julia Schwartz - UC Davis alumni and former Arts of Fashion candidate 2005.
Exhibition: Fashion
Conscious: Sustainable Fashion Design Museum / May 15 - July 13
Hyeres 2008
10 designers | Graham Tabor - Isabelle Steger - Miriam Lehle - Jean-Paul Lespagnard - Olivier Borde - Matthew Cunnington - Lucia Sanchez - Titipon Chitsantisook - Titi Kwan | Photo Jessica Roberts - Hyeres Photo Grand Prix 2007 And the Winners 2008 are: Matthew Cunnington - Great Britain and Jean-Paul Lespagnard - Belgium The 2 collections are at the opposite poles: Matthew's collection is full of emotion, elegance and austerity with draped black pieces which fabric cleverly burnt with acid, giving it lightness, while Jean-Paul's collection is playfull and immediatly refers to his native Belgium with its kitchy details such as French fries... Nevertheless, another designer, Isabelle Steger - 24 years old from Vienna - former student of Raf Simons and Veronique Branquinho - attracted a lot of attention with the development of her strong concept linked to social problems. Uniforms, overdimensional sizes and geometrical shapes and cuts illustrate her astonishing collection with unusual models during the fashion show... Isabelle Steiger will present her new collection with Arts of Fashion - CarteBlanche-Series - on Oct 31/Nov 1, 2008. This year, and for the first time, the 10 designers were exhibited in one of the Villa Noailles' gardens...
10 photographers | Kayo Ume - Cassander Eeftinck Schattenkerk - Diana Scherer - Amira Fritz - Philippe Jarrigeon - Adi Lavy - Patrick Tsai & Madi Ju - Scarlett Hooft Graafland - Spencer Murphy - Audrey Corregan | And the Winners 2008 are: Audrey Corregan - France and Amira Fritz - Germany For the 10-year anniversary of the Photo Festival, the Director Michel Mallard invited Los Angeles based photographer Melvin Sokolsky and organised a retrospective of his work in the Squash of the Villa de Noailles. The most famous fashion shots from the Master during the Golden Age of the fashion photography - the sixties - were exhibited! Woman floatting along the Seine in a bubble. or walking on the ceiling were born from the creative mind of Sokolsky! Contemporary fashion exhibitions were made with Haider Ackermann, jury member, in the Swimming Pool of the Villa, stringing his pieces and hanging them while Felipe Oliveira Baptista settled his architectural garment construction in the Reading Room. Ludivine Caillard, artist, investigated the time with hand-made techniques.... in the Room of Madame.
Los Angeles - White & Black
Los Angeles - Fashion City more well known for its Red Carpet and its flourishing T-Shirt industry - has recently added to its arsenal the two most influential designers of our time: Rei Kawakubo and her revolutionary brand Comme des Garcons (which produced the most important fashion earthquake in the Paris fashion establisment in the 80's) and Martin Margiela - her Belgium adoptive son - if we can say... who began to be taken seriously when he took over the women's ready to wear at Hermes in 96 before his line was bought by the successful Italian giant Diesel. Today Margiela continues his influential career and international development while presenting his Haute Couture line in Paris. The Maison Martin Margiela Store is white as we can expect however thousands of shiny plastic sequins cover it, reminding us that we are in Beverly Hills, next to Rodeo Drive glitter brands... Just behind MMM, we can access to the Mameg store, which carries an impressively high selection of creative fashion designers including Hussein Chalayan, Raf Simons, Charles Anastase and Lanvin. www.maisonmartinmargiela.com 9970 South Santa Monica Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90212 tel 1 310 284 8093
The Comme des Garcons Guerilla store sticks to its original concept of temporary location in an unexpected district downtown L.A. and in a back court. However the decoration seems to respond to the question of Rei Kawakubo's new strategy of collaborating with H&M for the coming Fall: Arman's kind of accumulation of empty Walmart carts... For sure, with the H&M diffusion, not only will Kawakubo help them with their upcoming opening in Japan, but H&M will allow her to reach the new generation for whom she is nearly unknown. The previous fashionista generation is already frustated for their lost priviledges... www.guerilla-store.com 125 West 4th Street Suite #106, Los Angeles CA 90013 tel 1 213 626 6606 Justine, Clara and Gabrielle chez MMM and Comme D - Los Angeles 08
Sandra Backlund
Sandra Backlund is the 2007 winner of the International Fashion Hyeres Festival! As always, the winner is invited to come back the following year to the festival and present his/her new collection. Therefore, no one ought to miss this new Rendez-Vous, which takes place the very last weekend of April in Hyeres! When the fashion industry is on repeat and no longer shows intense creativity, Sandra could be qualified as a "creativaholic". Actually, Hyeres will not just discover her new collection, but her third one! Her collections are beautiful, stunning and stand exactly in the mood of uniqueness and coconing we all have in mind. Creative, craft, sculptural and completely artistic! Collection Last Breath Bruises dedicated to her grand mother - Photo Annika Aschberg
The Daily Reveille
Dr. Lisa McRoberts, new Assistant Professor at Louisiana State University invited Nathalie Doucet to come and speak for the Textile Science, Apparel Design and Merchandising Divison of the School of Human Ecology on April 2, 2008. The topic was Fashion and Creativity. Fashion
expert advises student to find identity - By LESLIE PRESNALL - Issue
date: 4/3/08 Former fashion designer,
Nathalie Doucet inspired design and merchandising students to develop
their own design and niches Wednesday in her introduction to Arts
of Fashion. Doucet is president of the Arts of Fashion Foundation,
a nonprofit organization based in San Francisco that focuses on creativity
and fashion."Our goal is to expose fashion design students to
a creative mindset," Doucet said. "Arts of Fashion is all
about creativity. "She told students to develop their fashion
identity while they are still in college. "I think creativity
is learned in school," Doucet said. "After you're in the
fashion industry, it's too late."
LSU senior student Isabel Varela is not a stranger to the Arts of Fashion: she was part of the Miami MasterClass 07 conducted by Tony Delcampe, Director of the Belgium fashion School La Cambre and Laurent Edmond, first creative assistant of Martin Margiela. Isabel has been selected to be a part of the 20 fashion students to participate in the upcoming Paris 4-week fashion summer program.
The Pratt Institute hosts the First Round Selection of the International Arts of Fashion Competition 2008 The prestigious Pratt Institute - College of Art and Design (1887) - and its fashion design department whose notable alumni include Norman Norell, Betsey Johnson and Jeremy Scott to name a few, accepted our invitation to host the jury session for the first round selection of the International Arts of Fashion student competition on May 2, 2008. Selected high profile design professors from reknown institutions will serve on the jury: among them are Dr. Valerie Steele - Curator and Director of the FIT Museum - NY; Tony Delcampe - Director of the Fashion School from La Cambre - Brussels; Steven Faerm - Director of the BFA Fashion Design program from Parsons - NY; Dr. Van Dyk Lewis - Professor at Cornell University - Ithaca; Charlene Parsons - Director of the Fashion department from Miami International University - Miami; Rosie DePasquale - Chairperson of the Fashion department from Pratt Institute - Brooklyn NY... In addition, Bernardo Siaotong - Fashion editor at Surface Magazine - will join. The jury session will be held at Pratt's Manhattan Campus - a newly renovated building. The Pratt Institute, occupying 25 trees-filled acres, is located in the historic Clinton Hill district in Brooklyn. The Pratt Fashion department - the oldest fashion design program in the country - has been recognized for a very selective admission, qualitative design and interdisciplinary studies. A recent article in the New York Times makes reference to the Pratt-designed Cube project with Nissan - Cube-ism: Automobile Meets Art - brought together Fashion and Industrial design students at Pratt to re-think one of Japan's favorite cars and help launch it for the U.S. market.
AFAA against the creative Fashion Designers in the United States The influential American Apparel and Footwear Association (AFAA) disagreed with the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) to support the bill introduced in the Senate which would have extend copyright laws to Fashion Design. Conclusion: the Design Piracy Prohibition Act will have to wait. Small scale and creative Fashion designers can carry on spending hours to brainstorm, think, create, design and test innovative technique of draping to be immediatly stolen by wealthy counterfeiters, unscrupulous retailers and manufacters as well as pseudotrend setters dealers without any way to protect their work... Europe, Japan and even India have all responded to the rapid advance of information and technology in the field by adapted legal protection for fashion design. China is right now envisionning the question but in the United States, AFAA does not even considered it.When fashion design Schools florish and their tuition and fees raise, we can wonder how these fashion design students can later do to decently reimburse their loan... Dedicated Law Professor and Forever 21st century copyright fighter aka Susan Scafidi provides all information and details on her website:
Hyeres - Fashion & Photography International Festival 2008 The festival - a prestigious and highly competitive platform for young designers - which official sponsors to name a few are Hermes, LVMH, L'Oreal... is set on the French Riviera, facing the Mediterranean and inside the gorgeous site of the Villa de Noailles, an avant-garde cubist villa turned cultural center. The festival - for its 23 anniversary - will spotlight 10 young fashion designers from Argentina, Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, Thailand, United Kingdom and the United States plus 10 young photographers, innovative exhibitions mixing contemporary art, fashion and photography, and will host the 8th annual international textile and fashion conference.
The Fashion Jury will be presided by the acclaimed creative director of Givenchy: Riccardo Tisci. In addition, the jury will include expertise of the famous Parisian head hunter Floriane de Saint-Pierre, as well as leaders from the highest selective P.O.P. such as Maria Luisa from Paris, Sonja Noel / Stilj from Brussels, Sarah Rutson / Lane Crawford from Hong-Kong. The New York's stylists Patti Wilson and Camille Bidault-Waddington and the so talented designer Haider Ackermann will join! The different spaces and rooms of the villa will be dedicated to exhibitions. For example, while Haider Ackermann will exhibit in the Swimming Pool, we will have the opportunity to discover in the Squah Space how the rebirth of the 60's creative photography brings us back to a more contemporary vision today through a retrospective of the work of Melvin Sokolsky. However Mr de Noailles' Room, will home the artist sculptor Ludivine Caillard playing with her 'Color Sticks' and questionning about 'Time After Time'. Felipe Oliveira Baptista - Hyeres winner 2002 and newly official member of Haute Couture - will invite us to access to his architectural approach of fashion in the Lecture Room and the worldly acclaimed blogger-photographer-globe trotter - Scott Schuman aka The Sartorialist - will offer his selective vision of fashion in the Gallery. The photography contest will stay downstair and most of the guest rooms will host the 10 young designers!
Sandra Backlund and Peter Bertsch - 2007 fashion winners - will present their new collections during the fashion show on Saturday evening on the Beach: Plage de L'Ayguade.... www.villanoailles-hyeres.com................. www.modeaparis.com
Miami - Belgium
The Belgium newspaper - La Libre Essentielle - opens its Paris fashion week special issue of February on the bridge the Arts of Fashion Foundation builds with faculty and alumni from La Cambre Mode[s] who regularly come and teach Masterclasses during the annual Arts of Fashion International Competition and Symposium in the United States. Interviews of students such as Amy Sarabi - Duperre Award - and Laurence Weinisch - Natallia Brilli Award - can be read... (click on the photo or download the pdf version http://www.lalibreessentielle.be/n102/pdf.html) Since then, just graduated talented designer Amy Sarabi sold her first collection under her name at the San Francisco icon boutique Modern Appealing Clothing aka M.A.C which carries designers including Martin Margiela, Walter van Beirendonck and Lanvin... www.lacambre.be ................. www.amysarabi.com
The guest fashion editor in Chief of this special issue is Tony Delcampe, Director of La Cambre Mode[s]. Actually, Tony Delcampe (BeachingStichBitch MasterClass) and the duo OWN - Thierry Rondenet and Herve Yvrenogeau - (BagBoys MasterClass) have been hired to launch and develop a brand new label "Dressing Right" which is all about design and creativity as we can imagine, but also sustainability and fair trade! The first boutique will open soon in Brussels... Tony Delcampe and the OWN will direct the 4- week intensive fashion summer program in June in Brussels with only 20 students from all over the world... www.dressingright.be................. www.own.be
We can also discover the interview that Isabelle Blandiaux - who came to Miami to debate with Susie Bubble on the bloggers topic - did with Veronique Branquinho, when flying to Miami! The retrospective of the first decade of the work of Veronique Branquinho will begin on March 11, 2008 at the MOMU - Antwerp " Moi, Veronique BRANQUINHO TOuTe NUe" ..www.veroniquebranquinho.com................. www.momu.be
Refreshing Haute Couture - Anne-Valerie Hash raises the bar Anne-Valerie Hash opened the Haute Couture collections in Paris today. Integrating her landmark design vocabulary with menswear, fourteen elegant and sophisticated silhouettes on the transparency and lightness themes were revealed. The wonderful Haute Couture craftmanship was ingeniously built through a unique make-up color range, made by assembled layers of sheer rubans, organza, tulle, pleated techniques and strategically embroideries by Lesage! Anne-Valerie Hash, graduated from
the Ecoles of Chambre Syndicale in 95, recipient of the Andam Award
in 2003, has been invited to join in December 2007 the illustrious
circle of the official Haute Couture members. Through this brilliant
collection, Anne-Valerie Hash, 37 years old, has demonstrated one
more time that Haute Couture is not only a reserved subject for Dior
or Chanel Houses but also a clever tool of communication and powerful
sesame for the new rising independent talents, in addition to their
creative Ready-to-Wear collections. www.anne-valerie-hash.com.....................................................
Aurore de La Morinerie or the Art of Fashion Illustration Aurore de La Morinerie lives and works in Paris as an illustrator since 1986. With a diploma in fashion design at the Duperre School of Applied Arts - Paris, she has integrated into her drawings the techniques of wash drawing (ink, water, and brush) handed down from the Chinese tradition. In addition to her collaborations during the fashion week with the press including Le Monde and Elle and her participation in adverstising campaigns, Aurore has extensively worked for many years for major Parisian fashion houses such as Hermès and Agnès B. to name only a few, delivering drawings for the launch of new perfumes, catalogs or for the preparation of invitations and press packets. Aurore is not a stranger to the Arts of Fashion Foundation: she was invited to exhibit her work for the first edition of the CarteBlanche-Series, hosted at Oklahoma State University in 2004! Coming back from a Japan exhibition, she has just illustrated the new visual for the communication of Arts of Fashion 2008, which theme is Influence! She will also co-direct a very first Fashion Illustration 4-day MasterClass, during the next Arts of Fashion Symposium and Competition on Nov 6-7, 2008. www.auroredelamorinerie.com ........................................................www.bartsch-chariau.de.......................... The Arts of Fashion Foundation is a nonprofit organization, dedicated to international cultural exchanges through a variety of events meant to facilitate critical thinking among artists, designers, scholars and students. Arts of Fashion Foundation 635 Tennessee Street Suite # 402 San Francisco CA 94107 (415) 252 0734
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