UNDERPRESSURE - Another unique collaboration with Atelier Lognon & Maison Lesage - Paris, Belgium creative designer Zoe Vermeire and a group of international selected fashion students | Embellishment - Pleating and Embroidery Techniques to Fashion

The Arts of Fashion Foundation launches a sixth - Paris innovative four-week intensive summer MasterClass fashion program in English. It will take place at the Paris Decorative Arts Museum in the famous Le Louvre Palais - 111 rue de Rivoli Paris 75001 - Metro Palais Royal / Musee du Louvre

The course is an intensive Fashion Design Studios Program of 140 hours, over a period of 4 weeks, equivalent to 9 credit hours, from Monday to Friday, 9AM- 6PM with one hour break for lunch.

THE FOUR-WEEK SUMMER FASHION MASTERCLASS PROGRAM organized by Arts of Fashion Foundation and hosted by Les Arts Decoratifs, Paris runs from June 24 to July 19, 2013.

Rising star designer - Zoe Vermeire - works with a group of selected international fashion students on an innovative project to be exhibited at the end of the program in the Hall des Marechaux at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs on July 18, 2013 (5-9PM).

The goal of the Arts of Fashion Foundation abroad MasterClass Program series is to further develop and promote creativity in fashion, exchange of ideas, give fashion students access to the best possible sources of fashion education - including the diverse, unique and rich culture of craftmanship from the Parisian Haute Couture tradition - and to fund development of other creative and educational projects.

This is an excellent opportunity to develop students creativity in fashion design and gain a deeper understanding of research, contemporary fashion draping and craft techniques of embellishment. Moreover, students will be able to sharpen their skills in embroidery, applied patterns, inserts, pleating and incorporate them into cutting-edge styles. From the Paris Decorative Arts Museum's lectures and visits of exhibitions students will draw their inspiration and incorporate innovative techniques in their project.  Students will design and bring together 2 different silhouettes to be exhibited the last thursday of the program at the exhibition hall in the Museum (on Thursday July 18, 2013). In addition, students are strongly encourage to participate in the cultural program offered during the weekends to visit spots in Paris and Antwerp. Students will have the opportunity to do sketching during these visits.

- Increase and develop creativity by exposing students to new techniques, craft and different design approaches.
- Learn and experience first hand from first class renowned creative designers.
- Give students feedback on their portfolios and professional projects.
- Initiate and encourage collaboration between professional designers and students.
- Allow students to mingle and network with other fashion driven students from all over the world.
- Each Summer program is taught in English with 2 distinct fashion projects, with a team of fashion & textile designers for a class of 15 students.

After the successful summer Fashion MasterClass 2011 & 2012 in collaboration with the famous pleating Atelier of Mr. Gerard Lognon and the embroidery with the renowned Lesage House – paying homage to Mr. Francois Lesage, the Arts of Fashion is offering to fashion students and recent graduates another unique opportunity to work and explore with creative designers the Arts of Haute Couture.

Participants will have the chance to be introduced to the diverse, unique and rich culture of craftsmanship from the Parisian Haute Couture tradition. The main idea is not only to sharpen their skills, increase their vision and develop their creative potential, but also pushing their design and inventiveness boundary to the appropriation of the know-how / Savoir-Faire / The French cultural exception – “the antidote to uniformity”.

Participants will design a capsule collection around a defined atmosphere, following the inspiration of the current Paris fashion exhibitions and exploring design strategies such as the use of unconventional materials, the ideas of transgression and subversion (violation and satirization of norms and conventions underlying couture clothing), including surrealism and pastiche (creating unexpected and unconventional associations between different types of clothing or other objects, combining styles from different historical periods or popular culture). Then, they will have to build two silhouettes. The pleats and embroidery research will be incorporated to the project in term of embellishment but also design and function.

--Lab Studio is a unique type of studio course dedicated to design and execute finished garments from two original silhouettes with prominent designers as critics. Student develops and defines their own concept through the themes given and following their design research.

--Collaboration Studio is a unique type of studio course dedicated to explore and experiment textile design techniques from Haute Couture & Savoir Faire with Embroidery and Pleating. Student dvelop and applies their own textile research for their design project.

--Fashion Culture Mode offers a comprehensive survey of the Paris fashion design fields. Through fashion professionals and guests, field trips and exhibitions as well as our collaboration with the Museum Les Arts Decoratifs and unique access to their collections and library, student learns the scope and dimensions of the Parisian fashion industry and its related fields and activities.

A certificate and grades will be delivered based on student work and performance, according to the completion of the Fashion MasterClass, requirement and work exhibited.
The Hall des Marechaux at Les Arts Decoratifs, Palais du Louvre will host the new ephemeral exhibition of the work in process produced by students on Thursday July 18, 2013 and the photoshoot on Friday July 19, 2013

Nathalie Doucet, San Francisco | Director of Collaborative Educational Initiatives & Research of the Arts of Fashion Foundation.

Zoe Vermeire


Les Arts Décoratifs manage four national museums : the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, the Musée de la Mode et du Textile, the Musée de la Publicité (at 107 rue de Rivoli, the Rohan and Marsan wings of the Louvre) and the Musée Nissim de Camondo (at 63 rue de Monceau, the Hôtel de Camondo).

Les Arts Décoratifs is a private organization governed by the law of 1901 on not-for-profit associations and recognized as being in the public interest. It originated in 1882, in the wake of the Universal Exhibitions, when a group of collectors banded together with the idea of promoting the applied arts and developing links between industry and culture, design and production.
For many years it was known as the  Union Centrale des Arts Décoratifs (UCAD), but in December 2004 it changed its name to Les Arts Decoratifs while staying true to its original aims of safeguarding the collections, promoting culture, providing art education and professional training, and supporting design.

BEHIND THE SEAMS - An indiscreet look at the Mechanics of Fashion
La mecanique des dessous. Une histoire indiscrete de la silhouette
July 5 - Nov. 24, 2013 | Musée de la Mode et du Textile - 107, rue de Rivoli 75001 Paris

This exhibition explores the 'underworld' of female and male undergarments such as the fly, the pannier, the corset, the crinoline, the bustle, the pouf, the stomach belt, the bra and other vestimentary devices fashioning the body by means of whalebones, hoops and cushions according to the changing dictates of fashion. Modelling the body sometimes to extremes, these "mechanical garments" enabled the wearer to artificially attain the ideal of beauty of the time. This exploration is full of surprising discoveries since, contrary to common belief, these artifices were by no means a 19th-century speciality. Recourse to these concealed architectures has been constant since at least since the 14th century until the present day. Illustrating the diversity of artifices and their mechanics with museum pieces rarely shown to the public, this exhibition – the first of its kind – takes us 'backstage', into another, behind-the-scenes history of clothing and fashion.

The goal of the Arts of Fashion Foundation is to develop and promote creativity in Fashion and give access to fashion students and young professionals to the best possible source of creative fashion education, as well as allowing the Arts of Fashion to fund and develop other creative and educational projects to benefit fashion students and the Academia.


The story began in 1858, when Charles Frederick Worth opened his haute couture fashion house, and started making use of the prodigious talent of the embroiderer Albert Michonet, whose studio was purchased by Albert and Marie-Louise Lesage in 1924. This was the beginning of a period of fruitful and close collaboration with the best-known names of the time.

In 1949, on the death of his father, François Lesage took over management of the company at the tender age of 20. For 50 years, he has cleverly combined the skills of a traditional craft with meeting the pioneering requirements of the new generation of fashion designers including Karl Lagerfeld, but also Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Lacroix, Jean-Paul Gaultier, John Galliano, up to new talents such as Anne-Valerie Hash, Bouchra Jarrar and Alexandre Vauthier.

For each haute couture collection, François Lesage, and his team of designers and embroiders, develop a hundred new embroidered pieces, which are added to some forty thousand samples created since 1858.

François Lesage sold the Maison Lesage to Chanel in 2002. Paraffection, a specific independent company created in 1997 through Chanel SA, had begun its acquisition of many of Paris' top craftmenshops including Desrues – a costume jewelry and button maker, Guillet – a maker of fabric flowers, Maison Lemarie – a feather maker, Maison Michel – a millinery maker and recently another specialist in embroidery: Montex) in a bid to ensure their continued survival in a changing fashion industry and saving the precious parisian know-how of the haute couture.

Francois Lesage died on December 1, 2011, at the age of 82.


The pleated in Haute Couture has remained an exceptional and unique Art work and since four generations for Gerard Lognon.

This mysterious embellishment technic - which particular effect of pattern is obtained by pleating - was kept secret for a long time. From Madeleine Vionnet to Issey Miyake, every designer has at one time or another explored its own infinity of pleating. Most of the 3000 molds for pleats were designed and made by Gerard Lognon's grand father: Georges. Actually the inherited mold consists of two sheets of cardboard Kraft/Oxboard which fit perfectly.The fabric is spread all over on it and then carefully by hand folds. The whole ends up in the oven for steam press. The Parisian workshop of Gerard Lognon has become another unique Haute Couture craftmanship spot where still meets greatest designers from Dior and Hermes to name only a few luxury brands, their hord of assistants and even some inspired emerging designers looking for innovative and new experimentations.

According to Gérard Lognon, there is no specific nomenclature in terms of classification. However every pleated pattern is named including peacock, flower, and even azzaro. There is also some large pleating family such as the Fortuny but also the flat, the sun and the accordion...

The Arts of Fashion Foundation is a San Francisco-based 501(c)(3), public, non-profit organization, linking both academics and professionals alike and is dedicated in fostering international cultural exchange through the creation of a variety of educational programs meant to facilitate critical thinking and advance the field of fashion among artists, designers, scholars and students.The primary focus of the foundation is the continuous support of creativity and design process in fashion and the arts linked to it.